Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Suzy Menkes reports on designers proud to portray their national heritage in their clothes
4 Октября 2014
I had two opportunities to see Huishan Zhang’s work – and it only grew in importance the second time around.
I caught the end of the show presented in London as an English tea party. I was late, so I saw only the delicately embellished, after-dark dresses of a designer who has been travelling between his native Qingdao, China and the UK, where he studied at Central Saint Martin’s. He also did a stint working with Dior Haute Couture.
Up close in the French showroom, the work was ultra-delicate but the effect simple. I picked out the look of the season: a tailored white blouse with one bright patch of embroidery. It was shown with a semi-transparent gazar skirt, like an embroidered curtain of leaves.
The designer’s successful fashion fusion could immediately be seen in an embroidery of pandas on a streamlined white dress. Even more delicate was a rainbow coalition of pastel flowers in lacy shadow play – again on a plain, long-sleeved dress.
It is good to think that Chinese handworkers – in collaboration with a fashion-educated designer – can create effects such as chiffon leaf embroideries. I left the showroom thinking that Huishan’s East/West fashion story is going to have a happy ending.
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