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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Gareth Pugh: Power Plays

The urge to update a mediaeval past and put woman front and centre

22 Февраля 2016

Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

The regal gilded chair – so vast, so flashily golden – looked menacing even before it was filled by an uniformed woman, slouching while two other, smaller, chairs were occupied by uptight figures at London's Freemason’s Hall. 

Power women. Super-powerful women, wearing sharply tailored coats and suits, the like of which have not been seen on the runway since the 1980s. “My work has always been geared towards female leadership – it's always been about role models, particularly those who somehow toy with our collective fantasies,” Pugh said, as an introduction to his tailored jackets and slim skirts worn, Eighties style, with nude stockings.

Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Hair in Forties-style up-do rolls, faces masked as if either for sexual romps or plastic sugary, and the click of thin, high heels on the checkered floor all suggested women with a mission.

While admiring the quality of precision in his cutting and shaping, making Pugh probably the best tailor in London Fashion Week, I was still puzzled by the idea of re-living the androgynous Eighties.

Surely the world and especially women have moved on to create a much less aggressive, gender-neutral fashion society.

из
Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


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