Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Jacquemus: Child’s Play
Suzy Menkes at Paris Fashion Week: Day One
5 Марта 2015
“Doublefaced” was a theme that designer Simon Porte Jacquemus — known only by his mother’s maiden name — gave to his collection, inspired by Sebastian Bieniek’s photo series of the same name. But there was also a main, more poetic title: “Child of the Sun”.
Both of these ideas were appropriate for this collection of angular clothes, as if scissored by children at nursery school, and cheeks where a childish drawing would give the model a second ‘face’.
In his programme notes, the designer talked about a woman who becomes a child again, playing with make-up and clothing from her parents.
Backstage, the 24-year-old Jacquemus spoke of the death of his mother when he was only 19, and about how he cuts jackets as if done by kids in a random way.
The show was often weird, with a naked upper half of the body emerging from a paper bag of a pair of trousers, breasts and feet bare.
The surreal quality throughout the show was compelling — even if it had elements of Comme des Garçons, without that designer’s rigorous cutting. One piece stood out: a coat with a portrait neckline revealing womanly shoulders — proof of the designer’s cutting skill, and perhaps a sign of more grown-up clothes to come.
Jacquemus is one of 26 designers that have been shortlisted for the annual LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.