Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Milan Fashion Week Day Two
19 Сентября 2014
As I walked into Kiton’s Milan headquarters, I was greeted by the Mediterranean colours of the models’ tailored jackets and by the bold, three-dimensional works of sculptor and painter Mimmo Paladino.
I was transported back to my recent visit to Naples – the swelling bay, the marble sculptures, the grey streets with a touch of greenery and men of all ages in summer jackets cut in that soft, comfortable Neapolitan way.
I also saw in my mind’s eye the tailors at Kiton, creating every piece of a man’s jacket by hand to such an exquisite result.
My eye was caught by the intense colours of the women’s jackets: cherry pink, canary yellow, emerald, navy blue, a dawn-sky pink and a sea blue that looked a lot fresher than the water in the Bay of Naples.
Giovanna Paone, of the Kiton family, let me touch the fabrics that felt as soft as only a mix of cashmere, silk and linen can.
But when it came to the shape, my enthusiasm faded. The fit was perfect. Too perfect. Yes, there will be women bankers out there who want to wear a perfectly cut jacket to stride into the board room. But Kiton, with its skill and excellence in tailoring, might look again at those slouchy, seductive and deceptively casual suits of Neapolitan men. And transform them to a woman’s body shape.
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