A new day has dawned for Loewe, the Spanish fashion house that LVMH has put in the hands of Irish designer Jonathan Anderson.
“It’s about reaffirming the codes of the house, but bringing lightness and air — that’s why I wanted to do the show in the morning. It’s about daywear and seeing a character in the landscape.”
The designer waved his arm towards the modernist Unesco headquarters where the models walked along the outside terraces.
But like the men’s Loewe collection and the label’s advertising, these women in their sandy suede coats with flakes of the same material across the body were more likely to be found in that hang-out Ibiza, than Loewe’s ancestral home of Madrid.
Later in the show, a shredded bag was even more hippie-de-luxe.
Jonathan Anderson has been designing for women for only four years, but has got the point at Loewe.
The Spanish house is famed for leather, which the designer had treated to make it soft and pliable, while silk scarf patterns from the archives were printed onto Latex.
Without any overt reference to the Seventies, Anderson caught that vibe with hand-worked pieces of colourful leather which might form a neckpiece or a surface decoration.
The collection focused on tailored trousers, especially in vivid colours and taut sweaters paired with them.
The clothes were credible, and so were the bags, which are still the heart of the matter.