Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Maison Margiela: Telling Stories
Suzy Menkes at Paris Fashion Week: Day Four
8 Марта 2015
A young woman clutches her bag, lips smeared scarlet, her hair orange, and runs bent-double down the street. Her hat is pulled right down. Something is going on.
John Galliano has always been fashion’s great story teller, the designer for whom the stage set alone once exuded heartfelt emotion.
And in a fashion season where a little madness could only be welcome, that is just what John produced for his first ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela.
Just what these young women were up to in their clothes of many colours was not clear. But just stepping out in a canary yellow ankle-length coat with DayGlo orange gloves was a fashion statement.
There is something disingenuous about dressing up “Les Girls” in swishing long coats over mini skirts and enough mascara to look like their eyes were closed. Another young woman had an almost-bare chest and Mary Jane shoes so big they might have belonged to an older sister.
What did all this have to do with the original Martin Margiela, who would have been unlikely to take a fluff of fur, dye it a weird colour and turn it into a shoe? The answer is: nothing. But normcore be damned! The fashion world still needs a designer to prove that dressing up is not so hard to do.