Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Suzy Menkes at London Fashion Week: Day Three
15 Сентября 2014
The basics of a Marios Schwab collection is the human body. He has, in the past, even produced collections devoted to mapping out the skeleton under the flesh.
But this season, the show was a light rendition of body sculpture. Early outfits were in colours of putty and clay, and were recognisable wardrobe pieces — from a two-piece raincoat to a dress. Typical of the illusion were shirt and skirt, the shoulders scissored out, then veiled with transparent hosiery material.
This see-through effect appeared later in elegant illusion dresses that veiled the body lightly.
Perhaps the most intriguing of the designer’s thought processes were the fragmented prints that he said were inspired by the volcanic ruins of Herculaneum. They looked perfectly wearable.
The secret of artistic inspiration is not that an audience understands the source, but that onlookers feel the vibrations of emotion. I was impressed by the idea that so much thought had been compressed. And that the end result might be a streamlined dress in petrol blue — a colour that ran through the collection.
I admire Marios for staying with his concept of deep thought and wide visual imagination, but never forgetting that clothes must not be so conceptual that they are unwearable.
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