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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Marni: Off-kilter Romantics

Puffy sleeves, big flat sequins and curving lines offer a new compass point

2 Марта 2016

Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

“Romantic — but modern,” said Consuelo Castiglioni, as her Marni models tossed their heads to set in motion the sway of a string of circular earrings. But that jewellery and a dress cut with deep armholes were the only pieces that seemed to fill Consuelo's description of the collection as “out of scale”.

In fact, after a couple of seasons taking fashion sculptures to the max, sometimes as awkward as they were dramatic, this Autumn/Winter 2016-17 show had deflated in shape — but not in imagination. I envisaged the designer sitting at her work table among a line-up of coloured pencils, geometric tools, a set square and a compass.

Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

With one implement she would have produced arching shoulders and sleeves on a red dress; with another, a wavy pattern for a loose top and trousers. And then the fun of working out the accessories: the leg spats with a metallic strip on the shoe heel beneath. And, of course, those earring with their swivelling geometric circles.

And what about the giant sequins — either flat and shiny or more artistically displayed across the chest? There were still elements of oversize; especially big, regal sleeves ballooning up between elbow and wrist. They gave a touch of historical romance and also a feeling of an artist let loose, which could be a description of the designer.

Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Although Marni no longer focuses on furs, the family company's starting point, coloured capelets of fur were worn in an interesting, historical way, swaddling the chest. This show offered a strong version of what Marni is today: singular, with a twisted romanticism and a quiet, but very definite, signature.

Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Marni, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

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