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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Me – And My Identity

Fashion is focused on youth, and the millennials on themselves. Suzy reviews Giamba, Emporio Armani, Diesel, Hogan, Fay and Iceberg

28 Февраля 2016

Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

The digital age, and especially the Instagram generation, has transformed fashion shows in what were once unimaginable ways. The first exit on the catwalk must grab smartphone attention. The models must be young enough to attract a worldwide digital following. And, above all, from every angle the show must look on-message. Here is my verdict of the shows as I saw them — sometimes, but not entirely, through my smartphone. 

Giamba: Giambattista Valli

As the Giamba girls strode out belligerently, young things with hair twisted and head held high, it struck me that only a decade ago — even five years ago — parents would have had much more control over what their kids were wearing. Now it is the opinion of friends, via Snapchat, WhatsApp and Instagram, who will make the final decision about the raised waist of a lacy dress and decide to “like” the wavy patterned sweater worn above a tiny mini skirt covered in graffiti. (Mummy wouldn’t like it.)

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Giamba, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Giamba, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Giamba, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Giamba, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


These are rich girl’s clothes: a white silk organza dress worn under a padded bomber jacket. Even the shoes are tough and clunky, while the evening dresses, made pretty with pink flowers, were presented by young women with a tough attitude. Valli is surely finding his millennials in the daughters of his clients. Full marks to him for realising that mothers and daughters of today are worlds apart.

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Giamba, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Giamba, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Giamba, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Giamba, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Diesel Black Gold: Mood Indigo

You might expect Diesel Black Gold to be immersed in black. But the indigo denim pieces that opened the show were a sign that Diesel is spreading its style from the late teens to to the generation in their 20s and 30s. The brand was once hooked on streetwear and denim.

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Diesel Black Gold, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Diesel Black Gold, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Diesel Black Gold, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Diesel Black Gold, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Diesel Black Gold, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Diesel Black Gold, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


But there were more sophisticated pieces this season. For example, sections of quilting part-attached to a coat. Maybe the designer believes that you can capture fashion lovers very young before they find their own way of dressing?

Hogan: Fancy Footwork 

Hogan, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Hogan, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Of course, millennials are Generation Sneaker, the first to believe that sporty footwear is for all times and seasons. Hogan did show some sporty clothes, such as duffle coats and simple shirts, but the story was all at the ankles, where the choices were enormous — from glitter-gold to platform. Generation Sneaker would have a field day here with only one problem: which of the splendid choices to go for?

Hogan, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Hogan, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Fay: Texas on the Tiber

Take the West with the Wild and you had the theme for Fay, where elements from Cowboy and Western movies were combined with sharp tailoring. I am never sure whether a mixture of naval tailoring, with navy coats piped in red, and the ironic look from Spaghetti Westerns appeals to the digital generation. But, who knows? Design duo Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi made a fine job of making suede fringing and cowboy boots. If it is not for millennials, the look could be good for those who want to dress without fuss.

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Fay, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Fay, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Fay, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Fay, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Fay, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Fay, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Emporio Armani: Pixel Perfect

Daddy might approve of the clothes at Emporio Armani, where everything is on the side of decency and tailoring is still part of the Armani aesthetic. But this line seems to get younger with time, its patterns of triangles and squares straight out of a geometry class. Pink knits with black stripes, dots and other digital glyphs were an example of how this line has been refurbished with computer-generated patterns for 21st-century cool.

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Emporio Armani, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emporio Armani, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emporio Armani, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emporio Armani, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emporio Armani, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emporio Armani, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emporio Armani, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emporio Armani, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Iceberg: Dot Matrix

Take an Italian fashion house founded on knitwear, offer a smart young designer the chance to play with it — and the result can be very effective. Arthur Arbesser, a finalist in last season’s LVMH prize, understands the power of modernity in design — and he accepts that Italian brand Iceberg is famous for its knitwear. Taking as inspiration Superstudio, the avant-garde 1960s Italian architecture firm; Japanese street style; and the Italian rave scene from the 1990s, and you had the designer's vibrant mash-up. The vivid colours included a green and yellow furry coat; a papal purple lacy knit top and skirt; and oversize coats with bold digital patterns. These are bright looks for millennials who can handle clothes that speak loudly - to themselves.

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Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Iceberg, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


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