Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Michael Kors: «Opulent Restraint»
Suzy Menkes at New York Fashion Week: Day Seven
19 Февраля 2015
“I did take myself down to Vermont, but I didn’t rough it!” said a merry Michael Kors backstage, receiving celebrity guests on one side and compliments from all around for his show of autumnal beauty.
The fall-inspired colours were everywhere: rich chestnut, squirrel ginger and the tree-bark brown of the wood-floor runway. But the fur-trimmed coats, their arms often slit open like a cape, and the calf-length skirts were as appropriate to the city as to the country.
There was a lushness to the collection that was at the same time totally wearable. This was the best gathering of daywear we have seen yet at the New York Autumn 2015 shows.
Then, when evening came, it incorporated the spun gold of a winter sun, creating powerful decoration at the cuffs of a gold-buttoned coat, and as a dress for an East Coast golden girl. What Kors produced, in his own words, was “opulent restraint”.
That could mean a silken pyjama suit, but more often it was a fluffy sweater in mud brown, or a cream cable knit that looked rich and cosy.
The cape coat was a fresh way of dealing with outerwear. And it was credible to imagine winter in the city with an arm free for those ever-present smart phones.
To me, there was the merest hint of the Seventies in the velvet surfaces, paisley patterns and saddle bags. The checked tweed worn with brogues looked any-era classic.
But the line-up of international stars, including Kate Hudson, Poppy Delevingne and Ming Xi, proved that Michael Kors is, for this generation, American fashion’s golden boy.