Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Missoni: A Rerun of the Eighties
Suzy Menkes at Milan Fashion Week: Day Five
2 Марта 2015
Grace Jones gasping out “Warm Leatherette” is one of my memories of the Eighties. But I would never have expected to hear the music played at a Missoni fashion show, with clothes to remind us of that in-your-face decade.
Backstage before the show, Angela Missoni in no way prepared me for the mean and skinny dresses, albeit patterned vaguely in Missoni style, if they were not in glittery Lurex.
“She’s a very feminine, playful girl with a lot of freedom,” said Angela of the woman conjured up by the collection, and herself wearing a purple Lurex jacket. She also talked up the studio’s work in jacquard.
It is intriguing that Angela would light upon a decade when Missoni was out of the fashion loop, after its glory days in the Seventies.
The label’s co-founder Rosita Missoni once told me how lost she felt with how fashion was moving at that time.
The new look for Winter 2015 was confident, sexy with its body-conscious dresses and legging-like trousers. There was plenty of work in colour and knit craft that looked quintessentially Missoni.
Yet still, I was not quite convinced by the metallic mesh and zig-zag patterns that were veined, as was the floor of the eye-popping runway.
Full marks to Angela for trying something new — which the Eighties once were. But is this the moment to resurrect or reflect on that androgynous, hyper-shiny decade?