With all the Seventies hippie looks washing through Milan like the city’s rain storm, Angela Missoni made a smart decision. She stripped the layers off and bet her collection on a shirt.
It was not just any shirt, but a roomy, mannish shape with a bold print, worn billowing over a dress or a long skirt. A turban on the head — in more patterned silk — gave the feeling of Elizabeth Taylor’s Hollywood. But there was no obvious reference, just a faint gesture.
To see Missoni prints after drowning in patterns the entire Italian season is to experience a master class in style. Angela cited Pop Art and the ever-present Matisse collages. But her skills ran from hazy horizontal stripes on a wrap coat to a single orchid, its curling lip placed strategically at the cleavage on a beige top. That floral beauty was worn with a skirt of crayon-coloured lines.
It was brave and so right to take Missoni forward, using fresh, natural colours like green or shell pink. The show suggested that for all the brand’s fame in the 1970s, it is relevant to now.