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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Moschino on Fire!

Jeremy Scott takes his vision beyond McDonald’s and Barbie

27 Февраля 2016

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

As a giant chandelier dress swayed down a runway smothered with Persian rugs, tinkling past the broken furniture recalling the 15th-century, Puritan “Bonfire of the Vanities”, the Moschino model paused under an archway — the better to show off the crystal creation. This funky parody of high fashion had thousands of hits on my Instagram when I last looked.

Whether this success was due to my shaky photographic skills or to designer Jeremy Scott is a good question, because he has such a cult following. Moschino under its dynamic American designer is on fire — literally in this show, where puffs of smoke around one model looked like a theatrical special effect until she turned to show smoke curling out of singed leather at the rear.

из
Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Burnt patches were the new decorative motif for crinolines almost as wide as the chandelier. The smoke came from machines inserted under the clothes. As Jeremy put it: “Apocalypse WOW!” It all sounds like stage-set nonsense. Yet this was a new departure for Jeremy, who has previously focused on subjects such as last season’s car wash, where every piece had some reference to street signs and produced road rage for its chaotic management.

This show was quite different: fewer fans screaming outside and a more sophisticated set. It even had some serious tailoring, as long as you don’t mind your shapely grey coat decorated with giant cigarette burns. 

из
Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Otherwise, the show was built on party dressing, with swooshes of taffeta sweeping up into a giant bow, revealing underwear and thigh-high boots; or a graceful swathe of silk draping over a pair of ragged jeans. 

It was hard to tell, with all the showmanship, how credible a wardrobe Jeremy offered. Smoke gets in your eyes. And that was the story from this joker who has made a fashion career out of being at least 50 per cent serious about his work. On the flip side, this season featured a handbag shaped like a packet of cigarettes. 

Instead of the usual warning it had one phrase: “Fashion Kills”. Bitter sweet.

из
Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Moschino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


   
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