Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Paris Fashion Week Day Four
28 Сентября 2014
Mugler is one of those brands — and between Jean Paul Gaultier, Paco Rabanne and Victor & Rolf there are a few of them — whose business success is intrinsically linked to fragrance sales.
Since the original Thierry Mugler left the stage, there have been various designers, all trying to reincarnate that icy, angular world that reached its apex in the 1980s.
David Koma, the latest Mugler designer, did a reasonable job of carrying the flame — literally in the case of two slimline dresses with a fiery pattern.
The collection was played out mostly in black and white, with a geometric cut that did a compass swirl to set the bodice askew. Add silver decoration or a shiny silvered skirt and there was that hard, metallic feel.
If this had been a pre-collection, I would have been impressed. There was plenty to buy between the skewered cuts, scooped-out backs and subtle shades of glacier blue. The long black dresses with split sides and silver trimming could have been from anyone, but were well executed.
Having had the good fortune to see Thierry Mugler’s groundbreaking moments, it was hard not to reminisce.
I reached for the programme notes. The bag also offered up a much welcome bottle of cold Mugler water and a pile of miniature fragrance samples from Clarins, the owner of the Mugler brand.
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