Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
New Shoots: Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
3 Марта 2015
If all the hidden talents were brought up on stage, would there be a youth quake in Milan fashion?
It is 40 years since new shoots appeared, thrived and grew into what are now household fashion names that are also mighty empires.
Continuing with the gardening metaphor, the overarching trees have cast a shadow over fertile ground, making it tough over the last decade for younger and newer arrivals to flourish.
I have always felt that the Aeffe Group, which is behind Alberta Ferretti, is interested in youth and willing to experiment with unexpected talents — supporting Jean Paul Gaultier in his day, and recently Jeremy Scott at Moschino.
So it was a pleasure to see Lorenzo Serafini step into the light as creative director of Philosophy.
Ferretti, joint-founder of Aeffe with her brother, started Philosophy as a sidebar to her namesake brand, and Serafini respected that heritage. He built ruffles into blouse necks, feminised cable knitting by making a cape, worn over what looked like lingerie.
I caught a whiff of the Seventies in the Victoriana facing of a new version of the Saint Laurent luxe tuxedo.
But Serafini’s skill was to pull all that together with something simple: a pair of well-cut white jeans.
Sometimes new designers — or shall we say ‘newly visible’ — try so hard to make a splash that they forget fashion’s purpose: to enhance.
But whether in white, black or blocks of wine, mustard and ginger, the designer stayed on message: he wanted to dress women in the real world.
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