Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Peter Pilotto and Huishan Zhang
Suzy Menkes at London Fashion Week: Day Four
25 Февраля 2015
Peter Pilotto: Print Control
Taking a step back from crazy, hazy, full-on digital printing is the fashion mood of the moment.
Design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos have been on this new trend for a couple of seasons. And for Winter 2015, they had a deep spring clean.
The idea of small dots and tiny squares, especially on a white background, pushed the refresh button in a fine way. Apart from a couple of outfits criss-crossed with a tangle of black lines, the clothes seemed relatively free of complex prints.
However fancy the ‘geometricks’ were, most of the overall graphic effects were subtle. Dresses, coats and separates were all cut on slim lines, and this linear fashion vision seemed well matched to the discreet digital decoration.
Huishan Zhang: Eye of the Beholder
It is a long march from Chinese warriors in uniform to women dressing for the modern, international world.
But Huishan Zhang, with his eastern family heritage and British fashion training at Central Saint Martins, seems able, like a good chef, to know just how much of each ingredient to use.
Often I cannot even distinguish the exact Chinese flavour, when I see a dress in Ming blue with white lace decoration, or a hologram inserted into a lattice of crystal.
The designer himself calls his mix of silks, cottons, tweeds, jacquard and felt mesh a “Chinese puzzle”.
But Huishan Zhang must have solved it, because the clothes look streamlined and wordly — with just a frisson of the far east.