1. Suzy Menkes
  2. Suzy Menkes

Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Proenza Schouler: Control and Release

The duo set out to put last season’s deconstruction back together

19 Февраля 2016

Proenza Schouler, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

The coat was dark, smart and fitted to the body, but it suddenly gaped open to reveal giant, white trousers. “Control and Release,” said Lazaro Hernandez, who was explaining with his design partner Jack McCollough, the purpose and thought behind the new Proenza Schouler collection.

The set was sensational: the Whitney Museum of American Art beside the Hudson River had its big, modern show space filled with silver-foiled seats that twinkled like the lights across the water in New Jersey. An art gallery has a clear appeal to artistic designers — giving them perhaps the courage or even the right to stretch the imagination.

Proenza Schouler, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Ordinary clothes these were not, with a blazer taught and wrapped to a slim waist, hiding soft-falling, baggy pants beneath. The same lace-up idea might give a window of flesh at the midriff. Entry points at chest and waist of an otherwise long, lean dress looked suitably modern.

“We were playing with the silhouette, lacing the top but releasing it at the bottom with the heavier pant,” explained the duo, describing work like their intentionally shrunken knit swatches collaged together as an antidote to last season's deliberate lack of control. I found an echo — faint but apparent — of Céline.

Proenza Schouler, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

It touched me when a sweater was tucked tidily into a high-waisted skirt, a bag on a short chain held under the arm and against the chest. But who can blame strong designers for thinking alike? That is what fashion is: the coming together of different minds that produce what becomes a trend.

Many of these outfits looked as though they came from a struggle. But the energy of this duo pulled most of the ideas into modern and stylish clothes, making their efforts engaging and intriguing.


Proenza Schouler, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Proenza Schouler, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough

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