Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Pucci’s Mood Music
Milan Fashion Week Day Four
21 Сентября 2014
“Colour and sunsets,” said designer Peter Dundas of the Pucci show, where he lingered backstage, embracing Naomi Campbell and other bombshell models in multi-coloured tie-dye dresses. Just in case the colour and drama were not enough, there were also hefty necklaces with silver baubles to finish the hippie-de-luxe look.
Or perhaps the show’s last word was Dundas himself, with his unruly blond curls, taking his bow in a Bob Dylan T-shirt.
The hippie era has been a strong influence on the Milan Summer 2015 season. But if you want the real, re-made deal, Pucci is fashion’s hotspot. Has a granny-takes-a-trip colourful crochet ever looked so sophisticated? Dundas even elevated those ugly brown and orange colours from the 1970s into a tailored tangerine coat and a pair of ginger suede jeans.
The show opened with pretty flower-child dresses, the little blooms embroidered on bodices and shoulders. Once the tie-dye started streaming down chiffon dresses, it would have been hard to stop this radical revival. But the difference between the Pucci style and many other efforts is the workmanship, which makes the party dresses look like artistry.
Rumours abound that Dundas might leave Pucci. That would be the brand’s loss, because a little irreverence can jolt a heritage name out of its comfort zone and help make some new mood music.