Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Rick Owens: Molten Gold
Suzy Menkes at Paris Fashion Week: Day Three
6 Марта 2015
The nobility of Rick Owens always gets me. However maddening his venue — up and down a scaffolding of steps — however late, or however much the strangled music sets my teeth on edge, one view of fabric wrapped round the body to create soft sculpture and I am smitten.
The Autumn/Winter 2015 collection was particularly elegant — if that is the correct word for clothes that seemed to be dipped in molten silver, bronze and gold. That metallic coating applied not so much to the cloth — although a black dress had a shining metallic panel at the front — but to the models’ heads, which were dipped in gleaming make-up as if they were space-age sculptures.
The fall of fabric was mostly one-sided, as if a sudden wind had swept the material across the bodice. Occasionally there was a diversion, as when the mass of fabric at the front was hung with hairy ginger fringing.
The clothes seemed to go back to a primeval past when wrap and drape was the way to dress. Yet the effect was ultra modern — and that is the exceptional skill of Rick Owens.
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