Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Rochas: Venus in Mud and Buttercup
Suzy Menkes at Paris Fashion Week: Day Three
5 Марта 2015
Is it enough to make curvy femininity modern, by serving it up in a workaday brown or covering the fabric with abstract birds?
At Rochas, a classic French house, Alessandro dell’Acqua is making the style classic Italian. This is hardly surprising considering the designer’s country of origin. And it suited Rochas, which had anyway lost its once Parisian identity.
A focus on the bosom, with the bust formed like twin shells as if for Venus rising from the ocean, was one way of reflecting on womanhood. So was putting transparent lace under a fur jacket, and the fact that belts with everything emphasised the waist.
The key print was of a flock of flying birds as an abstract pattern, inspired by an early work of Rochas. The show was perfectly nice and brightened up when baked mud brown was replaced by buttercup yellow.
Dell’Acqua has lightened up since his heavy-handed start, and this collection was appealing. But that is still not quite enough for brand identity in these competitive times.