As Roksanda Ilincic looks back at a decade of design, she must be thinking of what her bold, graphic clothes stand for. Her original training in architecture is assumed in each collection — not least for spring/summer 2016.
The venue was spare and grid-like, with blocks and floor lines in perfect sync with clothes that have a geometric line — but not rigidity - in relation to the body. That is the designer’s real achievement over the last 10 years: progressing from statement designs to a female sensibility.
That woman is, of course, herself. The “onesie” tailored in silk, spliced with horizontal lines and blocks of blue and orange, is a sporty outfit for embracing summer. The statement sleeves, which are coming to the fore this London season, are to be worn on a dress of a woman whose ankles are a long stride from her waist.
But most female designers have themselves in mind, and in Roksanda’s case the clothes are streamlined and dynamic. Maybe the store she opened on fashionable Mount Street in Mayfair has added a dose of reality to strong imagery. A coat swinging over one of those all-in-one outfits had an effortless elegance.
Or maybe the influence of ballet this season added grace to soften angular lines. The evening outfits were almost ethereal in their tufts of tulle. And raw, unfinished edges on appliqués of fabric, while not a new concept, seemed fresh and interesting from this designer.
From triangular tops to slim-line clothes with horizontal stripes, Roksanda gave her graphic approach a good work out.