Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Jason Wu re-designs female tailoring
18 Февраля 2016
It is a long stride from sleek severity to sweet serenity, but Boss for women has finally taken that step.
When Jason Wu took over the creative design of the German brand internationally famous for its menswear, the effect was to feminise the male. And “strict” was the operative word in Wu's early collections.
Even the panes of glass on a high-rise Wall Street building where the shows were held seemed in sync with the strictly tailored clothes. But with movie star Rooney Mara and celebrity Kylie Jenner sitting front row, the models' long walk under mushroom-shaped wooden light shades proved that Wu has finally reached his destination: dressing womanly curves.
Instead of firmly tailored suits, there were dresses cut and stitched on a curve that showed for the first time that Boss can make womenswear that is not a tame shadow of its core men's collections. “I try to keep it simple — but it's the first time I explored curved lines — even if it’s still very architectural,” said Wu backstage.
“Purposeful” is the word I would choose for the way these apparently simple clothes, mostly dresses, although with a sprinkle of suits, were cut to skim a woman's body.
The curvatures of seaming like lapping waves shaped the dresses, whether they were in sturdy felt or slithering satin. Rooney Mara, in black, praised the sweep of low-backed dresses. The colours were mostly neutral with some decoration of what looked like hand-drawn flowers. There were also the occasional vividly coloured dresses in bright pink or coral.
The collection has noticeably moved forward from its rigid early days and Jason Wu seems set to pacify women who want clothes appropriate to their gender — but that work as hard as they do.
Rooney Mara and Jason Wu
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