Pearls are the jewels most associated with innocence. But there was not much womanly restraint in Alexandre Vauthier's flesh-and-fur collection peppered with pearl-encrusted belts and blouses.
The designer can produce covered-up clothes, cutting a cool pair of narrow trousers and shaping the waist with tiny pleats. But he really trades in skin — the flesh and furry kinds.
A canary-yellow fur chubby with skinny trousers was a strong look. But mostly, there were dare-to-bare outfits: sheer dresses criss-crossed with lines of fabric, or the inevitable leg from a split skirt striding down the striped runway.
Unfair it may be to mention the 'V' word for Versace — but both Gianni and Donatella did this high-wattage sexual exposure first.
Glimpses of delicate workmanship and embroidery suggest that Vauthier really 'gets' couture. But if you show in a dimly lit subterranean car park, it is not surprising that bared legs come out first and best.