Suzy Menkes at New York Fashion Week: Day Four

Derek Lam had an interesting take on the exhibition at MoMA, The Forever Now, which explores the work of artists who borrow from the past without defining their own work as the present.

It was a smart move by the designer to align that with fashion, and be inspired by ageless female personalities such as Mia Farrow and Diane Keaton. The fact that both these women are celebrated for their work in the Seventies helped to explain his colour palette of mustard, orange and brown. There was also literal shine in this polished wardrobe — a patent leather or techno satin skirt with a reflective surface.

The Seventies saw the first stirrings of women seeking out power dressing. Lam’s look seemed like a follow-through of that concept, based on tailoring that was long and lean and more city than sporty. That is, unless you count baggy tracksuit trousers worn under streamlined coats.

The clothes were useful and well thought-out; a wardrobe to like, but not to sigh and die for.