Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Thom Browne: Back to Black
Suzy Menkes at New York Fashion Week: Day Five
17 Февраля 2015
Only when I looked into the intense, decorative darkness of Thom Browne’s collection, did I realise how relatively little black we have seen at New York Fall/Winter 2015.
With colour – especially the favoured 1970s orange — brightening up the season, Thom Browne’s success was remarkable.
His women were, of course, dying for the black widow look: faces veiled, a hat whooshed up like a sailboat, the clothes tailored to perfection. In what was initially a medical scenario, the set built of circular wooden pens featured two white-clad hospital figures apparently ministering to a sick patient, while a parade of women paid homage.
This ‘hospital’ scene seemed a familiar focus for Browne, though he soon switched to the hospital visitors, whose black ‘mourning’ clothes were densely decorated and often elaborate.
“I wanted it to be romantic — and with the one colour, it needed so much texture to give it light,” said the designer, whose varieties of embellishment within a firm framework were powerful. Two examples were a coat’s shearling collar and cuffs, or chiffon and a tie at the neck.
The intense attention to detail on graceful clothes with a Victorian feel showed Browne at his darkly imaginative best. And it also raised the question: why do so many collections seem literally as well as metaphorically lightweight?
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