Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Suzy Menkes reports on the Vionnet autumn/winter 2014 couture show
11 Июля 2014
An enchanted evening — with precise drapes in soft and slithering fabrics. That was the message from Vionnet at designer Hussein Chalayan's second 'demi-couture' collection.
And it was not just the airy elegance of graceful shapes that produced a fresh look. There was also a palette of red colours, from coral through to scarlet, to add richness to the autumn season.
Hussein had previously worked a complex grid, using it as a pattern. This time he showed his geometric skills with cut out circles on backs and insertions of pleats with a ruching effect. Soft fabrics were pleated, twisted and knotted into a tail, suggesting the skills of another fashion treasure: Fortuny.
Most dramatic was material worked into the shape of a crocodile tail. But these were not tricks — just couture effects, which might help Vionnet connect to a client base of sophisticated women who want to look contemporary, but elegant.
Next season it would be good to see the designer give his tailoring skills a workout. But for fashionable fluidity, this was a fine show.
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