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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

#SuzyCoutre: Giles Deacon — Unfussy Grandeur With A Pop of Eccentricity

At his Paris Couture Week debut, the designer impresses with fabric and cut

20 Июля 2016

Printed silk Duchess draped gown with embroidered silk Duchess corset. Giles Deacon created the print himself
Printed silk Duchess draped gown with embroidered silk Duchess corset. Giles Deacon created the print himself

If Duchess satin did not exist, Giles Deacon would have to invent it. He has a penchant for the nobility, but being British, he veers towards the more eccentric kind, like Lady Ottoline Morrell, who hung out in the artistic milieu at the turn of the 20th century. 

Silk georgette printed Fabergé imperial gown
Silk georgette printed Fabergé imperial gown

Thus the unfussy grandeur of this impeccably made collection — the first that Giles has shown during the Paris Couture season. And although he has yet to put these clothes on the catwalk, the display had character in its striking colours and intriguing materials. 

Silk-satin gazar printed gown with hand-painted gold feather embroideries
Silk-satin gazar printed gown with hand-painted gold feather embroideries

“I just did not want it to be a collection where you just have a rail of monogamous-looking clothes. I wanted each one to have its own individual character, with short and long pieces and with jacquards and embroideries,” the designer said. 

Emerald jacquard dress with Swarovski crystal-embroidered panelling
Emerald jacquard dress with Swarovski crystal-embroidered panelling

Couture should be up close and personal, and it was a pleasure to hear from the designer's mouth how he had seen pictures of Fabergé eggs in a book of his father's — and had then been inspired to turn the oval patterns into a print. 

Gold damask gown with Swarovski crystal and laser-cut flower embroidery
Gold damask gown with Swarovski crystal and laser-cut flower embroidery

Likewise, on a visit to the British Embassy in Paris, he saw exceptional fabric and traced it to the Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company in England, then used their handwork to create materials for his designs. 

Pale pink silk layered petal and feather embroidered corset dress with pearl ornamentation
Pale pink silk layered petal and feather embroidered corset dress with pearl ornamentation

Judging by the bustle of visitors at his presentation, potential clients are eager to pick up an original talent, especially where the designer makes bold gestures with a regal cape gown or a cocktail-hour dress - short, A-line and smothered in laser-cut flowers.

Silk jacquard fitted razor dress with hand-smocked velvet cape
Silk jacquard fitted razor dress with hand-smocked velvet cape

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