Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
The designer drew coats, dresses, swimsuits and bags from the maths class and gave it all an artistic spin
19 Сентября 2016
Geometry and art", said Anya Hindmarch after her show had literally shutdown with a mighty circular cap fitting back into the floor.
When it had opened up like some space age satellite revealing layers of steps, the models had started their rounds, walking up the amphitheatre to the audience level.
Yet, in spite of an exceptional set, in which Anya excels, it was ultimately only a backdrop to imaginative clothes that seemed to have been drawn with a compass and set square. Decorating them was another, similar, geometry lesson.
Everything — especially coats with rounded shoulders — started with a circle that might move fluidly into a straight line.
And to match that technique, the designer invented another "mathematical equation", as bags, shoes and decorations on a dress were all made in geometric shapes in leather.
Anya, who had a tabletop backstage brimming with the bright coloured extras, called them "naive craft techniques". These leather pieces had been treated by cutting edge technology to produce the complex shapes.
The designer started as a handbag creator, and was probably the first to understand the power of personalisation. In an era of the It bag, she invented a way of do-it-yourself additions on the highest level of quality and technique. In her store and across the world, the Anya Hindmarch stickers have become part of her design persona.
Now that she is doing full fashion shows, it has become clear that the Anya Hindmarch brand and its owner are far more creative than early, jokey presentations suggested.
She described her area as "visual mediums articulated through pattern, form and colour". That meant juicy shades for Neoprene coats. They suggested water mellon, strawberry and tomato moving towards less edible colours such as lilac, neon green and royal blue.
Anya has used geometric forms for show sets — and for handbags — before. But the story was in the adornment. The designer explained that the leather craft was created without any stitching — say a flat sandal with furry decoration (not so new in current fashion) or bags with leather cut outs crafted by literally cutting-edge technology.
So this was the latest leap forward after Anya Hindmarch's magnetic decoration. Full marks for this imaginative geometry-as-art class.
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