History seems to swirl around London designers like the fog that once nestled on their city.
But Jonathan Anderson looked a long way further back than smokey Victorian England.
"It's from the Henry VIII period, but it's part of a whole idea about relics, the idea that a woman would take something from the aggressive masculinity of a period of bygone days and be, not a warrior, but wear a shape that is very empowering," said Jonathan Anderson.
His Irish gift of the gab then continued to recount a story of appropriating an urban culture which in itself re-interpreted "the Tudor hefty drill and velvet, replacing it with fine, organic linen."
What a fashion miracle that this convoluted explanation referred to a powerful and intriguing collection, probably the most wearable that the designer has done. There were interesting mixes of materials, but an overall sense of purpose — even if Jw continued to make his presentation as awkward as possible, having the models walk in and out of narrow green cabinets.
The mix of fabrics was striking — and not particularly as separate ideas. Henry VIII's full sleeves were in frills of white cotton which infiltrated a padded tunic that mimicked a royal doublet. Another white linen dress looked like King Henry's latest mistress had been caught stark naked and did a quick cover up with bits of table linen.
But there really was a mad design logic to all these pieces, which were original in colour — especially the sunrise/sunset shades of pink dissolving into sky blue or as a draped dress in the warm gold of dying day light.
Having learned about accessories from his other day job as designer at Spanish, LVMH-owned Loewe brand, Jw added big, squishy suede and leather bags, almost big enough to hold a royal crown.
The strength of the show was in its designer's certainty, as he placed a monkey's face on one of the flaring sweater tops and, on just one side of a top, another bold, if incomprehensible, pattern of what looked like human bones.
Mis-matched earrings, misshapen shoes, it was all part of a vibrant energy that marks the best London designers and makes them uniquely original.