Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
28 Сентября 2015
Snap-happy heaven! And it was not just the audience at the Dolce & Gabbana show that was rhythmically raising an arm to capture a moment. Click! Sicily! Click! Portofino! These place names were mixed with flower patterns on saucy summer dresses.
The models themselves, carrying their cell phones, took selfies as they walked the runway. This twenty-first-century dream then appeared on Two huge screens above the catwalk.
That was not the only thing that sent the audience into a jolly mood. There was also the music: Dean Martin singing those corny 1950s Italian songs "Buonasera Signorina" ("It is time to say goodnight to Napoli") or" That's Amore!"
The backdrop was of a 'molto Italiano' sidewalk complete with fruit market, ceramics store and café called "Italia is Love".
And what were the clothes that went with this merry romp? They were pretty familiar — with the accent on both words. Silken caftans looked fresh as a Moroccan tile pattern slid over the body. Ditto for patterned silk pyjamas.
But the charm of the show was not in seeing how the dynamic duo had changed register by putting the curvy black short dress in mild competition with soft dresses with longer hemlines. Or how intense the decoration was on a coat, a straw basket or a pair of decorated earphones.
A Dolce & Gabbana show — especially after the shuttering of their other label, D&G — is about exquisitely made clothes getting the fun treatment.
Ever since the designers started to create Alta Moda and show it in different Italian cities, they have incorporated witty interpretations of those settings. So here a dress with a small waist and short bouncy skirt would announce "Portofino" across the breast. Others were dedicated to Rome or Sardinia. The finale — it is a brand ritual to bring all the models out together like a fashion army — collected these different travel picture books together on various dresses.
Dolce & Gabbana may have become predictable, but the clothes were also on message, while other famous Italian houses such as Emilio Pucci and Roberto Cavalli are trying out new designers. Consistency is looking good.
I rushed backstage to take my own selfie with 'the boys', who had appeared on the screens posing with the models.
In the melee, I forgot to ask if what looked like lipstick strokes on dresses were interpretations of the Sophia Lauren No 1 lipstick Dolce & Gabbana has just launched. Whether or not it was, I took a selfie with my face against the dress.
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