Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
#SuzyMFW: For Marni, Success Is In The Hip Bag
Designer Consuelo Castiglioni put the accent on outerwear and on neutral colours with capsules of colour
28 Сентября 2016
Rumours are swirling around Milan that Consuelo Castiglioni, the designer and former owner of Marni, is re-evaluating her situation now that Renzo Rosso’s company Only The Brave now owns 100% of the brand.
Let's hope she keeps her unique voice singing out for a quirky elegance and for architectural clothes that are kind and gentle to a female body.
After some dramatically cut, not to say artsy, creations in recent collections, this was a more straightforward progress from A to Z, or, to be more precise: from white, in its many monochrome shades, through to black — with some colour and a little pattern in between. Yellow flowing into green and even scarlet made bright statements between the neutral shades of white and black.
Yet with all this sense and sensibility, what caught the attention were roomy, semi-detached pockets that swung in pairs, one for each hip. This focus seemed architectural — a dramatic gesture rather than for real use. Yet the effect of this indoor-outerwear was striking and at times, as in a slim coat, totally wearable.
The art of the collection seemed to be in its movement, as pleats opened and closed to a natural rhythm, while shapes were aligned by flaps and cords. This designer has a unique way of looking at fashion, from her spidery flower drawings to her mismatched earrings. Her wistful, private vision of womanhood is special to Italian fashion — and long may it continue.