Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
#SuzyMFW Jil Sander: Back To The Broad-Shouldered 1980s
The current designer uses batwing shoulders and pleats on a tilt to re-draw the silhouette for the new millennium
27 Сентября 2016
Beloved or benighted — are the 1980s really worth reviving? Especially when the brand concerned had nothing to do with the exaggerated broad shoulders and in-your-face extravagance of that era?
The designer, the most recent in a long line, has made a flourish. An orange leather jacket, broad at the shoulders, lean at the waist and long enough to reach the thighs, created a firm silhouette and a bold statement. Especially as it was followed by other separates in the same colour: knee-length shorts; soft dresses with those sharp shoulders; or just a skirt with a pouch bag tied around the waist below billowing pleats.
There has been a recent movement in fashion towards Miyake-style pleats, so innovative that the Japanese designer took out a patent in the early 1990s. Rodolfo took the idea and made it work for going to work. Cream pleats fanned out from shoulders, but narrowed from the waist down; this was the dress shape for the collection. It came in bright sorbet colours and in black which was a dominating colour for the tailoring, oversized in its cut and best described as “stern”.
Although I found this almost caricature of feminism unsettling, the designer is at least drawing a new image of Jil Sander. And as with so many houses where the founding designer had to be replaced, Rodolfo has something to say. It will be interesting to see whether in store or online, the retail offering will maintain his dramatic statement of batwing shoulders and oversized 1980s shapes to such an extreme extent.