You are viewing the Russian Vogue website. If you prefer another country’s Vogue website, select from the list

Хотите получать уведомления о самых важных новостях из мира моды? Да, подписаться

Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

#SuzyMFW Stella Jean: Streamlining Africa

The designer modified her caricature of African style and used football as a unifying symbol to make a unique collection

28 Сентября 2016


When Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean was first picked out as a winner of Franca Sozzani's Who is on Next? talent competition, she had an upbeat but theatrical vision of Africa and its diaspora. She started with pattern, colour and a sprightly, jokey style.


Working with the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre, a United Nations agency, the designer started working with African fabrics handwoven by women in landlocked Burkina Faso and Mali. Her shows were fun, caricaturist and even had beginners' gaffes such as models falling off their high-heels.


But something happened earlier this year when the designer brought in a gospel choir singing Coolio’s "Gangsta’s Paradise" to accompany her show. The clothes also seemed more in tune with modern life.


For Spring/Summer 2017 everything fell into place. There were still live musicians on stage, but Stella Jean had a “eureka” moment: the uniting force of sport. As she put it: “Football is played in streets, among market stalls — it is still the simplest form of communication between kids of all ages — without the need for wi-fi.”


So sport was on the agenda — and on the runway as STFC: Stella Jean Football Club. That was printed on sports shirts while men’s and women's clothes focused on sportswear, like a slither of a stretch dress or a man’s horizontally-striped jacket. With not a hint of her previous tribal style, Stella Jean made patterns, shapes and even a rounded leather bag as a bow to the glorious game.


This really was a breakthrough moment for Stella Jean, as she wove patches of fabric into a slim and streamlined dress and married a striped soccer shirt with a long skirt embroidered at the hip line. There were no African caricatures: just a feeling of colour, joy and print kept beautifully under control.



еще в разделе Suzy Menkes

#SuzyMFW Stella Jean: Streamlining Africa

#SuzyMFW: All The Fun Of The Fair At Dolce & Gabbana

Never mind the clichéd clothes, it was an upbeat “hot-town-summer-in-the-city” sort of show

#SuzyMFW Stella Jean: Streamlining Africa

#SuzyMFW: For Marni, Success Is In The Hip Bag

Designer Consuelo Castiglioni put the accent on outerwear and on neutral colours with capsules of colour

#SuzyMFW Stella Jean: Streamlining Africa

#SuzyMFW Material World: Gabriele Colangelo And Marco de Vincenzo

Only in Italy can you find young designers so fixated on fabric — because handcraft is still alive for experimental forays in threads and cloth

комментарии / 0

оставить комментарий

самое популярное

«Эконика» расширяет линию аксессуаров
Новости «Эконика» расширяет линию аксессуаров

Больше клатчей и бижутерии в арсенале бренда

Модная отличница Барбара Мартело о любви к шубам и правильным джинсам
Новости Модная отличница Барбара Мартело о любви к шубам и правильным джинсам

Стилист, консультант и серый кардинал мира моды рассказала Vogue, как добиться успеха, делая то, что любишь


подписка на журнал

Для Вас все самое интересное
и свежее в мире моды

VOGUE на планшете

Свежий номер журнала
по специальной цене

VOGUE на iphone

Скачайте
по специальной цене!

VOGUE коллекции

Для iPhone
и iPad

Vogue Россия
в Facebook

Vogue Россия
в Vkontakte

Vogue Россия
в Twitter

Видео-канал
VOGUE Россия

vogue россия
в instagram

Instagram

Самые яркие
фото VOGUE.ru