Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
#SuzyNYFW: Michael Kors — Zing! Went Fashion Heart Strings
Looks like New York might get a happy ending as the big designers start showing American fashion at its easy best
19 Сентября 2016
Exactly one week since New York Fashion Week opened on a lawn in Roosevelt Island with a complex show of nothing very much from Kanye West, the city's fashion pros have finally taken over.
"I'm still old school — the idea that clothes should put you in a better mood — I am an optimist at heart," said Michael Kors as he took his bow while the audience was still cheering both the colourful, wearable collection and singer-songwriter Rufus Wainwright singing "Come On, Get Happy".
Zing! went the string of fashion hearts as the Kors clothes — jacquard florals, fresh white dresses or even shorts and tops swimsuits — walked a runway set in squares so that everyone, from Chinese film star Yang Mi to Michael's mother Joan Hamburger, seemed to have a front row vantage point.
Should we consider this Kors show — with its corny idea of intarsia stitching of "LOVE" on a cashmere sweater — as a little simplistic? It may be so when compared to the elaboration at big design houses, especially in Europe. But I think there is real merit in keeping things apparently simple.
Of course, behind this parade of easy summer dresses, well-tailored jackets and streamlined accessories, is a depth of workmanship.
Whether it is stretch satin jersey for a floral dress or a silk georgette skirt, the fabrics and the shapes all start at ground zero — they are made from scratch by the designer. Giant daisies against a grass green and sea blue just look simple.
The big ease is the essence of American fashion. But it does not have to mean the basic t-shirts and shorts as seen on sidewalks in this hot September. Kors works every intarsia cotton pullover, every chambray or silk georgette bias dress to make women's clothes — and a scattering of men's seen on the runway — seem so easy.
They have also become quintessentially Kors, as other established New York designers fade away or pass away, leaving him a lone figure.
I asked Yang Mi why she liked Michael Kors; "simple, easy to wear, nice colours, good handbags" was her reply. Maybe other designers should remember that most women — even movie stars — want clothes that look good, feel good and work for them as individuals.
I thought about Rufus Wainwright and how many years he must have put in his career to be able to sing with such such apparent ease. I guess the same goes for Kors.