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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

#SuzyNYFW: Tory Burch — Bicoastal

From Manhattan to Malibu, the designer looked for inspiration from two different aspects of American style

16 Сентября 2016

Short and cute or dreamy and long, East coast versus West coast — Tory Burch took a fresh slant on fashion by staying in her homeland.

After seasons when the inspiration for the designer's patterns has moved from Persian rugs to Picasso's ceramics from the south of France, for summer 2017 she explored home territory — to strong, if simplistic, effect.

From the artistically fake wood grain floor, through to models in grass-green outfits stepping out to 'Massachusetts' by the Bee Gees from the 1960's, Tory immediately struck a fresh note.

And, as the show continued with brief, brisk outfits like a checkered trouser suit or a shiny plastic rain jacket for New York and, for LA, sun-drenched long skirts — big with flowers — below teeny tiny matching bras, the message was soft, but clear.

"I have a quintessentially American style, but you know I’ve been in Europe for the last seasons so I thought it would be good to look at the two very different coasts of America," said Tory.

Cashing in on her knowledge of the homeware she sells in her shops, along with a romantic vision of California, the designer made a show that seemed familiar in concept, yet fresh in sprit. For example, an ankle length white dress perforated with an airy sport effect.

Tory's designs never fall far from the tree. Or, in this case, the sea. A crisp blazer with a yacht pattern underlined with a sailor's "ahoy" competed with the hippie florals. Colours: think orange for embroidery at the neck and hemline of a kaftan, or on a chirpy skirt, teamed with a cable knit cotton sweater.

So was this Tory Burch "America dreaming" for the same woman who lapped up European references?

"I think it is different sides of the same woman," Tory said. "It's about contrasts — graphic motifs and engineered prints; ropes and rickrack; pearls and macrame; mules and moccasins; structured and Bohemian ease."

And what if all that had been mixed instead of matched? Neat and tidy is Tory's way.


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