Anthony Vaccarello's signature is skin. His clothes increasingly seem like accessories to the body, as a waist-high slit in a black dress brings to the fore a long stretch of bared leg.
Even when clothes relatively cover the body, there is still some skin — a top deliberately sliding off the shoulder, say, or bare flesh showing between top and skirt.
This kind of bold exposure, as though it is the choice of a free and confident woman, is what convinced Donatella Versace that Vaccarello should design the Versus line. For this label the designer has been effective and on message.
What leapt out at me during Vaccarello's own show was a similar sporty spirit, as blue jeans were topped with white shirts patterned with inky blue flowers.
I thought back to the use of denim at Versus, which had also given a dose of fresh energy to a more familiar sexy spirit.
It looks like the V and V collaboration has been fruitful on both sides: it is one of those rare moments when asking a designer to oversee a second line seems to strengthen his resolve with his own label, making for a happy fashion combination.