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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

#SuzyPFW Céline: It's A Woman's World

Designer Phoebe Philo reflected the calm and the chaos of modern life

3 Октября 2016


That woman with the raffia straw bra over a white dress with its hemline dipped in blue ink — is she crazy?


But here she is again, looking sleek and absolutely normal in her pale plaid pant suit, its waist cut away to let a belt slip through. So there it is: the dichotomy of modern women's lives at Céline.


Even if the models had been stark naked in the rush to get up, make breakfast, stuff their tablet into a bag, drop the kids off at school and make it to work on time - designer Phoebe Philo would still have got her message across.


It cried out from the planning of the set, where the models walked purposefully in different directions, as if following a map of organised chaos.


The only thing that stayed constant as the figures criss-crossed the space were the shoes and the bags, always perfectly selected even if a neat, square hard bag and soft white sandals were teamed with a white dress that looked as though a maverick artist had painted ink splodges on a woman's intimate areas from breasts to thighs.


Phoebe's innate understanding of a modern women's multiple roles could probably be summed up by the fact that she had two daughters discreetly placed beside a pillar on the set, tidy in blue jeans with highly decorated shoes. Who knows if they give their mother fashion advice — or inspire her just by being there?


This Céline collection was notable for its harmony of the essential and the whimsical: the first embodied by a smart jacket, the other by what looked like a fraying white table napkin absent-mindedly left tucked into the bodice.


Was this Céline collection an ode to women's crazy busy lives? If so, Phoebe Philo turned it into an art form with a display of quiet and bright colours in perfect harmony.

It seems that the chaos theory of fashion can become a thing of beauty — if left in the right artistic hands.

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