Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
#SuzyPFW Givenchy: Back To Nature
With minerals, minimal silhouettes and a garden of plants, Riccardo Tisci swaps hoodies and sweatshirts for botanical beauty
3 Октября 2016
Circles of globe lights like full moons reflected on the silver wraps worn by guests at the Givenchy show as they tried to keep warm sitting outside in the Jardin des Plantes.
But it was not long before fiery colours broke heat over slender dresses to give at least the illusion of warmth — even if the narrow dresses were soon swapped for dark velvet, with giant crystals filling in the plunge fronts.
"It's a botanical collection, about nature and the moon — there is a lot of change in the set; the music, the style and the prints," said Riccardo Tisci, who has been retreating over the last year from his one-time fashion go-to of hoodies and oversize sweatshirts.
This collection was on a slender silhouette, sensual and elegant, with references to minerals in the colours and in the chunks of jewellery on thick chains, giving a faintly pagan echo.
"It's about nature made out of geometry — a spiritual way of looking at nature on another planet," explained the designer, referring to the inspiration of stones, minerals, organic cuts and prints of the moon.
Although there was a less exotic garden of plants growing right there beside the stage set, its autumnal colours fitted right in with the orange, bronze and gold shades on the runway.
It was interesting to see Tisci's thought process as slim, pallid beige dresses, curving on the body in stretch linen, moved on to the vivid, more sporty versions. That meant athletic vests worn under taut dresses in hot pink and fiery orange. An even more dramatic effect came when a pattern was created of rounded organic shapes on narrow dresses.
The designer ticked off the show's elements as "stones, minerals, organic cuts, rounds of the moon, water, clouds and trees". I picked up on the fact that various designers in these spring/summer 2017 season shows have turned to patterns of sun, moon and stars, but Riccardo's seemed particularly close to a world of tarot cards and mystic symbols — they exploded into colliding geometric shapes in vivid colours as the show progressed.
"It's a new way to see the spiritual related to nature — on another planet," said Tisci. "I wanted to go back to body conscious sensuality (at a time) when women are fighting for power, not only in America, but in the rest of the world."
The designer's train of thought was confusing to follow. But the fashion messages were clear: sophisticated clothes that resonate with the heart of brand Givenchy.