Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
#SuzyPFW: Hermès — One Foot in the Country
1 Октября 2015
The famed silk scarves as worn by the Queen of England, the iconic bags named after the famous — the Hermès culture of fine accessories has an established place in fashion history.
But what about the footwear? There are no Birkin ballet pumps or Kelly court shoes.
In a bid to give its shoes greater status, Hermès has been showing its vast range during the Paris ready-to-wear season. And, as ever with this brand, there was a graceful set - a gentle nod to country life, with botanical drawings hanging on the walls and greenery dangling from the ceiling. The three presentation rooms opened out onto a Paris garden; the central display was of suede platform sandals decorated with leaves and positioned beside a vintage wooden birdcage filled with toy birds.
What struck the mind's eye was the sheer volume of output from the artistic imagination of shoe designer Pierre Hardy. His touches were light: laurel leaves creating the upper part of a turquoise sandal, or more branches spread across a shoe.
The real story was in the craftsmanship: thin twists of suede making up flat sandals were echoed in a similar woven lattice in a high heel. Multicoloured flats and sneakers with a wooden heel all spoke of the kind of luxury Hermès has planted in their vision of a country garden.
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