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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

#SuzyPFW: Jewels for a new generation — Gaia Repossi and Delfina Delettrez

Modern presentation is an important asset

9 Октября 2015

Special effects: Delfina’s display seemed to move across the mirror by itself
Special effects: Delfina’s display seemed to move across the mirror by itself

Jewellery design, like fashion, is not only about appearances. It is also about attitude.

Modernity may, and usually does, come with streamlined and dynamic shapes, but the allure is also in the way jewels are presented to a new generation.

Delfina Delettrez
Delfina Delettrez

Any dynamic young woman who has looked at images of haughty figures, hair swept up into an out-of-date chignon, and a chest full of stones above a strapless gown, knows how few jewels seem to be aimed at those with their own money to gift themselves.

Gaia Repossi models earrings from her collection for S/S 2016
Gaia Repossi models earrings from her collection for S/S 2016

As Gaia Repossi fought through the crowd at hip Paris store Colette, she explained that the swooping glass case was a deliberately modern design for contemporary jewellery. And that it will be the blueprint for the modernised Repossi store that will open next year.

Ear and nose rings for Delfina Delettrez’s S/S 2016 collection
Ear and nose rings for Delfina Delettrez’s S/S 2016 collection

The dramatic jewels are made with architectural clarity in solid gold, and fit the simple, streamlined clothes of modern times.

Gaia Repossi’s gleaming modernist collection was a hit with the international press
Gaia Repossi’s gleaming modernist collection was a hit with the international press

For Delfina Delettrez, jewellery was displayed in an art gallery — the better to frame her intriguing designs and, it turned out, their performance.

Delicate hoop earrings by Delfina Delettrez for S/S 2016
Delicate hoop earrings by Delfina Delettrez for S/S 2016

Standing in front of a thick, mirrored pillar, Delfina made the jewels move across the surface. Eyes with thick lashes, lips and even noses moved across the mirrors as though under their own control.

A surreal display of Delfina Delettrez earrings for S/S 2016
A surreal display of Delfina Delettrez earrings for S/S 2016

Was it magic? The concept was comprehensible, according to its creator. Except that personally I could not grasp it. What I did get was how smart and original is Delfina’s attitude and her creation. No wonder that after opening in Mount Street in London, she is looking for other places to place those frisky jewels.

Gaia Repossi’s display of super-contemporary jewellery for S/S 2016
Gaia Repossi’s display of super-contemporary jewellery for S/S 2016

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