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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

#SuzyPFW: Leonard — Digital Dilemma

9 Октября 2015

When the Paris house Leonard was granted "Enterprise of the Living Heritage" by the French government eight years ago, it was for good reason.

The prints that Daniel Tribouillard had created from drawings and paintwork, in the traditional, non-digital way, had been recognised around the world, especially in Japan, and Leonard's orchid designs became emblematic of the house.

Like so many young designers tasked with giving a fresh and youthful fillip to an established house, Yiqing Yin played with the historic prints, using the computer to expand butterfly wings and paint flowers with an acid palette.

But this is a difficult path to take when pattern — digitally enhanced — rampages over summer clothes both classy and cheap. As diagonal swaths of colour on a draped dress or as intense floral patterns on shirts and trousers, the designer seemed to be projecting Leonard into the digital age.

Yiqing had all the requisite modern ideas, like colourful sneakers. Her show notes referred to Andy Warhol and the décollage posters of Jacques Villeglé. But couldn't she instead find enough ideas in the Leonard studio or in a greenhouse and retrace the floral vision for a new generation?

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