Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
#SuzyPFW: Louis Vuitton — Minecraft Generation
Instagrammable fashion with an eye on the future
8 Октября 2015
The multitude of screens were flashing, the digital devices were on the move, then re-aligning, as a disembodied voice instructed the audience about the video game, Minecraft.
But in spite of all these distractions, the Louis Vuitton journey into space made a good, strong show.
As the models strode out in short leather jackets, mesh tops, brief skirts, mini kilts or patchwork patterned trousers — worn with with bold, angular hand bags — there was a memory of the designs offered by Nicolas Ghesquière in his early days at Balenciaga. But this show, for a brand that is predicated on travel, had a sense and a purpose.
“It’s really about travel to the frontier of the digital world. We know Louis Vuitton, the style, the history, the patrimony — this is a way of looking forward. It’s about innovation and the digital travel that we are all experiencing,” said Ghesquière backstage.
That was after he had greeted an industrial level of celebrities, from Hollywood's Michelle Williams to South Korean star Doona Bae, whom the designer called “my great inspiration”.
On this final day of four weeks of shows across the globe, it is evident that the star fashion houses eclipse the rest in style and, above all, presentation.
The reach of the Louis Vuitton show, staged at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in the Bois de Boulogne, seemed so vast and all embracing, the digital installations alone worth of an hour of study.
But Ghesquière's skill was to pursue a future that was still grounded in the past — or, at least, the present. The clothes, from body suits in soft or shiny materials to up-scaled workwear in a plausibly decorated denim, belonged to the real world. There was a rich development of intriguing surfaces and details. In competition with the vivid screen play, they needed to be appreciated up close.
That was the difficulty with the LV show. It was almost too contemporary in its music-video visual style and Instagram attitude.
The clothes have come a long way since Ghesquière's first outing of faceless, if luxurious, “normcore” clothes. But it is hard to decide just who the LV woman is. Except that she’s addicted to Minecraft.