Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Poetry conjured by virtuouso techniques from high-tech fabrics
8 Октября 2015
The prairie, with tufts of green grass and wild flowers, has become a symbol of the spring/summer 2016 fashion season, which just closed in Paris.
The grassland is a sign of a return to decency and gentility. But at Moncler Gamme Rouge, that wispy innocence was sharpened up with a fencing blade and a protective hat as fashionable accessories.
Backstage, designer Giambattista Valli explained that the collection was more sporty and less girly than it appeared: white dresses, short in length with a defined waist and full skirt, had been created with techno fabrics. On the nature side, there were lily-of-the-valley prints and drops of water, created with crystals, on white sneakers.
But the young French girls he imagined hanging out at the Trianon in Versailles had their innocent and decorative dresses made out of PVC lacquered macramé, techno net and nylon embroidery.
Reno Ruffini, CEO of Moncler, was smart to pick Giambattista Valli as Creative Director, because in spite of the many commitments to his own label, he seems genuinely enthusiastic at bringing out his sporty side. And Giambattista pointed out something that I had forgotten: his career trajectory can be traced back to Cristobal Balenciaga himself, as that master trained Emanuel Ungaro — where Giambattista was head of the design studio and then Creative Director of prêt-à-porter. No wonder that the maidens on the prairie had such a defined silhouette.
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