Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
9 Октября 2015
Ah! The Left Bank of Paris, known for its artists and intellectuals back in the days of film noir, followed by the 1968 student uprisings. That was when Yves Saint Laurent would mix high and low and Sonia Rykiel read poetry while showing knits that hugged the body and had a raw edge.
There is nothing raw about Saint-Germain-des-Prés today, where the louche and artistic have grown old and the bourgeoisie have long since moved in.
So arriving at the Sonia Rykiel store, done up as an evening den with live music, fulfilled the expectation set by programme notes offering a "party after dark".
Inside were clothes illuminated with sparkles: sequin-covered dresses, Marabou fluff at the wrist in what seemed almost a parody of club culture - with a live musical performance added to the small space.
This was the third show by designer Julie de Libran, and she still seems to be experimenting with and expanding on the house codes.
At first I thought she had turned her back on knits, the Rykiel heartland, until I grasped that from the sparkly patchwork of colours sashaying out, to fox shawls and Marabou boas, the base was always knit.
Add fine pleats, tennis-court sized netting and dynamic denim outfits and there was plenty to make a full Rykiel collection. Maybe the show needed to expand from the cramped store space. Or perhaps Lebran is trying too hard to be hip. The current denizens of Saint-Germain would probably welcome a nice, simple cardigan.
Спасибо! Первое письмо — скоро у вас на почте!