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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

#SuzyPFW: Valentin Yudashkin — A New Take on Russia

The designer suggests the end of the Soviet Union, not the twilight of the Tsars

7 Октября 2015

So many Russian inspirations are seen on the fashion runway, but almost all designers present the glamour of the Tsars or the folkloric charm of peasants from the Steppe.

Valentin Yudashkin dared to do something different: to turn the spotlight on the era of Gorbachev’s perestroika and glasnost policies, from the mid-Eighties to early Nineties. It offered a fresh energy, freedom and a breezy sexuality. Let’s call it “Dynasty in Moscow”.

Yudashkin translated this spirit as vivid colour and sporty clothes, using mesh to soften the big shoulder lines, which were curved, as if drawn with a compass, not sharply with a ruler or a set square.

The colours were vibrant and never off-tone or sour. Pink, purple and orange were frequent shades, but there was also pale lemon with soft green for a sporty Eighties-shouldered jacket.

The show moved on to artistic evening looks with a blood-red pattern running down a floor-length white dress. And then, to finish, full-skirted tiers of ruffles in Yudashkin’s dramatic style.

Full marks to the designer for exploiting/exploring? new — and Russian - territory.

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