Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Undercover: From Light to Darkness
Paris Fashion Week Day Three
27 Сентября 2014
The show started with balletic beauties in pastel crinolines and finished with black birds. Or, as the designer Jun Takahashi put it: “The girls start innocent, then they gradually show their darker side.”
There was a lot else on display at this compelling show, starting with giant rosy cherries on the runway, one of which was sculpted into a skull.
A feeling of menace was interspersed among the well-designed, sporty clothes, such as a feminised trench coat or bomber jacket. The proportions of these pieces were subtly altered to refresh their classic shapes.
When live, digitised images blinked out of pockets or the sides of handbags. I thought it must be some new Apple gadget.
Then I grasped the storyline: Adam and Eve and all that.
But Takahashi is an intriguing designer who puts layers of thought and ideas into his collections. Dresses printed with images from Hieronymus Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights added another page to the idea of innocence descending into decadence.
The show ended with clothes as black as crows – with large black feathers to reinforce the illusion.
Young designers across the world should study Undercover’s collections, because they are always a lesson in research, imagination and originality, yet they are still made up of comprehensible clothes.
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