Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Valentin Yudashkin: A Russian Forest
Suzy Menkes at Paris Fashion Week: Day Eight
11 Марта 2015
A winter forest with the bony fingers of bare branches — the Valentin Yudashkin show had the glow of embers in fiery colours, and symbols of deer antlers. It read like a Russian fairy tale.
But the designer put just the right amount of primitive forest on his runway, splicing those references with streamlined clothes for international travellers — not least his glamorous front row guests.
The show opened with the flame red that became a motif of the collection, but as trousers with a long, shapely jacket or a satin bustier, these colours were just brief mentions of the burning effects to come.
Yudashkin’s sharp cutting was enhanced by metallic fabrics that put a sheen on his tailoring. Velvet absorbed darker tones in colours like ink blue and forest green.
I liked the poetry of a motif of velvet autumnal leaves on a bomber jacket or tunic. The designer delved deeper into the winter woods with a rich embellishment of ostrich feathers with holograms.
But Yudashkin’s skill was to embrace Russian folklore with those stag antlers rising from the bodice of a billowing evening gown, which would still have international appeal.