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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Valentin Yudashkin: In Tune with Changing Times

The Russian designer leads the way on austerity elegance

14 Марта 2016

Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Russia's flagrant wealth and wild extravagance has faded. And with that change, often even preceding it, fashion has moved from ostentatious to a calmer spirit.

Already this season, with a set of autumnal trees, Valentin Yudashkin has marked the change. For Autumn/Winter 2016-17, tree branches bare of leaves ushered in a new style: austerity elegance. Even more, the collection in shades of green and wine looked like it belonged to the outdoors.

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Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


“Going out to the country - out to Siberia,” said the designer backstage, where the digitally enhanced effect of Malachite on a velvet dress, a top and even fur gave an eerie glamour. The other big change was in footwear. The models strode forward in their flat shoes, with just a gleam of glamour in a russet Jacquard trouser suit. Dominant daywear was covered with a black coat and Cossack hat.

Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

When the heels went up, the woman seemed less purposeful, but there were no over-fancy gowns -rather a slow-burn glamour where sparkles gleamed on lace dresses - the whole collection seeming in tune with straightened times.

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Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Valentin Yudashkin, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


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