Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Valentino’s Leisurely Journey
Paris Fashion Week Day Seven
1 Октября 2014
After a couture show heavy with history and references, the Valentino collection for Spring/Summer 2015 was about travelling light.
The moodboards backstage showed images of the Grand Tour – that 18th-century cultural journey taken by young aristocrats wanting to find the roots of Western civilisation.
“But it is not nostalgic; it was the idea of reflecting our past and thinking about a voyage – there is always a story,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli backstage.
For the two Valentino co-designers, the theme seemed more like “See Naples and fly!”, as the show opened with what looked like travel clothes in bright navy blue with appropriate handbags.
They were followed by shift dresses that took the show back to the days when Valentino Garavani was creating the look for Jackie Kennedy Onassis.
Even when outfits became patterned and dressy, Roman sandals were the order of the day for padding around Herculaneum – or hosting a party.
The clothes swiftly slipped into the signature exquisitely worked and embellished fabrics, although a sea-blue or foam-white shirt would lighten the look. A sweater in coral and turquoise, worn over a long skirt, had just the casual attitude to look modern.
If the show had been pruned, it might have been a stand out. One theme was the long dress with intricate patterns, and it came out so many times that it seemed that the duo had never packed to travel on Easy Jet, where luggage is limited.
On the one hand, I admire Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo for their dedication to making beautiful clothes. One chiffon dress decorated simply with starfish was fresh and lovely.
But the show lost its impact because, like so many journeys, it felt too long.
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