Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
16 Февраля 2015
“I’m ready to get sexy dresses back on!” said Victoria Beckham, although she took her bow at the end of the show covered up (albeit with a flirty drape at the hip of the skirt).
But bringing back sexy — a slither of flesh at the waist or a jigsaw of fabrics forming five shades of black — was only a sidebar to the main story: Victoria Beckham has made it as a designer.
I can’t think of another celebrity who has been willing and able to create a unique style. For Victoria, it is of course personal: tailoring and incisive cutting to make her kind of coat twirling a compass around shoulders and waist.
Then are her accent colours — mustard for a pair of culottes or a tailored coat — and also her own tidy way of playing with deconstruction so that the white satin dress at the close of the show was all flowery bows undone to show flashes of flesh.
And then there is her faithful family, the three boys sitting politely beside David Beckham with daughter Harper taking photos from his lap.
Before I had even Instagrammed my images, Brooklyn Joseph Beckham said, “Congratulations to my mum for another amazing show.”
Female designers are always personal, from Coco Chanel to Miuccia Prada. I do not elevate Victoria Beckham to that level. But there is a vision and an involvement here, very slightly quirky, hence the twist of fabric at the hips and the square-heeled ankle boots.
As Victoria said, there was a focus on dresses. But she had also worked sophisticated coats, some elongated, others short and wide. Chunky knits looked cuddly yet deliberately off-centre, like the asymmetry of the Eighties.
I liked the idea of menswear-inspired, working-woman clothes, although that became clunky without the softer draping. Severe black dresses morphed into others that were more feminine, if not in the spirit of last season’s pretty pink florals.
Victoria used the word “bouncy” to describe fabrics with a chirpy little life of their own. Whatever fashion people say about “Team VB” doing all the work, I believe that the foundation and flow of this collection could have come only from her.
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